FACE REALITY ACNE PROGRAM
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW
WHAT IS ACNE?
Acne is an inherited disorder of the pores – pores that shed dead skin cells much faster than normal. Normal pores shed about one layer of dead skin cells per day inside the pore. The acne-prone pore sheds up to five layers of dead skin cells per day and the body just can’t keep up. This forms the microcomedone, the beginning of all acne. Taking up to 90 days, it turns into blackheads or congestion under the skin; or if bacteria is present (which just loves to feed on the dead skin cells and oil), it turns into inflamed pimples or pustules and maybe even cysts.
How Long Will It Take To Get Clear?
Because it takes up to 90 days for acne to form, you may still have 90 days of acne that will surface. Our acne products and protocol will keep the new acne from forming that would surface 90 days from now. The Face Reality Acne System will have your acne under control in about three to six months (in most cases) depending on your type of acne. Some types of acne take longer to clear.
Your Acne Specialist will customize a home care regimen that takes at least five things into consideration - your type of acne, your skin type, your skin color, your skin sensitivity and your environment. The biggest part of getting your skin clear will be your commitment to doing your home care regimen as instructed and following lifestyle guidelines.
EXPECTATIONS OF YOU:
Your custom home care regimen twice daily
Treatments and/or assessment from your esthetician every two weeks
Home Care Adjustments – consistent adjustments to boost your home care regimen
Lifestyle Adjustments - foods, medications, cosmetics, stress, and pore-clogging ingredients in skin and hair products
Your progress will be closely monitored by a Face Reality Certified Acne Specialist who will make sure you have the best regimen for your skin - making adjustments, if necessary, to get your skin healthy and clear in the fastest way possible.
What Are Adjustments to Home Care?
We assess your skin every two weeks to see if we can make your regimen a bit stronger. We do not want your skin to get used to products, but also not make the regimen so strong that your skin gets dry and irritated. This method will keep your skin clearing up. It’s important to know that if adjustments are not made, your progress may stall. If, for some reason, you cannot make it in for a treatment, you must contact your Acne Specialist to get your next set of instructions for home care adjustment. Very mild corrective peels are used to boost the home care along with extractions of existing acne. If your skin is dry or irritated, we will opt for an enzyme/steam with extractions.
Lifestyle Choices Affecting Acne
Fabric Softener. Do not use this in the washer and/or the dryer (no dryer sheets). The waxy residue gets on your pillowcases, towels, wash cloths, and sheets that have direct contact with the skin. The residue will clog pores of acne-prone individuals. If you want something to stop static cling in your dryer, you can get anti-static balls at Bed Bath and Beyond, Target, or online. Detergent Detergents with fragrance can cause skin irritation. Best to use fragrance-free such as Cheer Free, All Free & Clear, Tide Free, and Arm & Hammer Free.
No Water Softeners. There is some evidence that water softeners can lead to acne, especially those containing high amounts of potassium chloride.
Swimmers. Swimming pool disinfectants contain iodides and chlorine which can remain in the water, causing skin problems for frequent swimmers. We advise applying a thin layer of Vaseline before you get in the pool. Sun Exposure and Acne Although sun exposure causes desirable scaling and drying, it also damages the follicle, exacerbates dark spots, and causes skin cancer as well as premature aging.
Always wear your sunscreen, even if it’s overcast and/or raining.
Beware of Hand Lotions. If you are using a comedogenic hand lotion and then leaning your face on your hands (many do this in front of the computer) or sleeping on your hands, this could contribute to your acne.
Breakouts Around Your Mouth Area? Many lip balms, toothpastes, and even facial tissues have comedogenic ingredients in them. So, if you see breakouts around your mouth area, this is possibly why. We recommend Vaseline or Aquaphor for a lip balm and toothpaste without SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate). Many well-known tissue brands are infused with things like coconut oil, isopropyl myristate, and SLS, all of which will clog the pores.
No Picking or Squeezing!
Instead, rub ice on pustules and pimples for a couple of minutes, twice a day.
IMPORTANT: if you pick, squeeze, and break the skin, that scab will leave a red or dark mark that will be there for months, making your skin look WAY worse than if you left it alone.
Birth Control and Hormone Replacement: Forms of birth control that contain low doses of estrogen can be higher in androgen hormones, and that combination may aggravate acne-prone skin. Certain forms of birth control are FDA approved to treat acne. Please speak with your doctor about the birth control method that will be best for you. You should also familiarize yourself with the benefits and risks of any birth control. Please see the Birth Control for Acne Simplified handout for more detailed information. Progesterone hormone replacements can be problematic. If you have polycystic ovaries, they can cause hormonal changes and breakouts.
Recreational and Prescription Drugs Recreational drugs: Marijuana, cocaine, speed, and steroids used by bodybuilders
Prescription drugs: topical and oral steroids, anticonvulsants, Lithium, thyroid meds, Quinine, Isoniazid, Imuran, Danazol, Gonadotrophin, Cyclosporin, Disulfuram, Phentermine, ADD/ADHD drugs. See handout if you want more information.
Chemicals Coal tars (roofers), grease (mechanics, cooks, waiters), chlorinated industrial chemicals, dioxin. This is being provided for informational purposes only. This is not meant to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Face Reality and Venustas Immortalis are not offering advice, recommending, or endorsing any specific prescription drug, pharmacy or other information. Face Reality and Venustas Immortalis provides no warranty for any information. Please seek medical advice before starting, changing or terminating any medical treatment
FOODS
(This is a guideline only):
We are not asking you to eliminate foods or food groups completely; we do suggest you cut back and moderate some food types. The “Try to Reduce” group has been proven to be a problem for most acne sufferers. We also know that some people have trigger foods such as citrus, but this is not across the board.
Try To Reduce Acceptable Substitute Iodides Iodized Salt Sea Salt, Uniodized Salt, Celtic Salt Milk (including organic and especially nonfat) Almond Milk, Coconut Milk, Rice Milk Cheese Nut cheese Whey or Soy Protein Shakes and Protein Bars Pea Protein, Egg White Powder, Hemp – still check for iodides and biotin before buying (Vega Sport Performance Protein & Perfect Fit are a few safe ones.)
Soy products: tofu, soy milk, tempeh, edamame, soy sauce Seafood, Shellfish e.g., cod, scallops Fresh Water Fish – lake trout, bass, catfish Spirulina, Chlorella, Blue-Green Algae Kelp, Miso Soup, Seaweed, Seaweed
Supplements: Vitamins with iodides, iodine, kelp, potassium iodide (also avoid Biotin and B12) Foods High in Androgens Peanuts, Peanut Butter Almond Butter or other nut butters Peanut Oil, Corn Oil, Canola Oil Olive Oil, Coconut Oil Shellfish Organ Meats including patè Supportive Foods/Beverages Foods/Beverages Ceylon Cinnamon Apple Cider Vinegar Green Tea especially Matcha
Antioxidant “Helper”: foods high in Selenium Brazil Nuts, Pinto Beans, Halibut, Wild – Caught Salmon, Oats, Navy Beans, Chicken, Spinach Foods/Beverages Anti-inflammatory Support Turmeric Ginger Green Tea (especially Matcha) Ceylon Cinnamon Foods high in Vitamin B3 - Crimini Mushrooms - Tuna - Chicken Breast - Fish (Halibut, Salmon, Sardines) - Leafy Greens - Asparagus More Anti-Inflammatory Support Foods high in Omega-3 Fatty Fish Salmon Sardines Atlantic Mackerel Anchovies Herring White Fish Omega-3 Enriched Eggs Walnuts Deep Leafy Greens – Spinach, Kale, Watercress Blueberries Hemp Seeds Mustard Seed Brussel Sprouts Winter Squash Navy Beans
Foods to Reduce Foods That Cause Inflammation:
Trans Fats - Cakes, pies and cookies - Biscuits - Breakfast sandwiches - Margarine (stick and tub) - Crackers - Microwave popcorn - Cream-filled candies - Doughnuts Overheated fats – baked foods/ fried at high temperatures Excess Sugar Omega-6 oils (most vegetable oils) and not enough Omega-3s Known Food sensitivities (examples – fruit, gluten)
A well-balanced low-glycemic diet can support all aspects of health, including your skin.
Skincare Supplements: The following supplements have been found to be useful in aiding your recovery from acne. Your esthetician may make recommendations based on the type of acne you have.
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY SUPPLEMENTS
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This form of zinc is the most bio-available form that acts directly as an anti-inflammatory. Many people with acne have low levels of zinc in their body. Supplementing with zinc has been shown to reduce the severity of cysts and inflamed lesions. It has also been shown to be beneficial for helping improve many of the dermatological symptoms in women with PCOS (Polycystic Ovary Syndrome). Zinc is an essential trace element for humans and there is evidence that it is similar to antibiotics in improving the condition of inflamed acne. The effective dosage is not clear. However, most studies indicate 50-100mg (The OptiZinc tablet that we sell are 30MG). We advise you to not take any more than 100mg because excessive zinc may lead to deficiencies in other vitamins and minerals. One of the reasons that we like OptiZinc is that it contains copper and copper is one of the minerals that can be depleted by taking zinc supplements. Zinc supplements can upset your stomach. To prevent nausea, always take OptiZinc with food. We also recommend discontinuing daily use of zinc once your skin is completely clear. We are not recommending this as a preventative. If you would like more information to help you make decisions about the benefits, proper dosage and best formulation of zinc supplements, we highly recommend doing further research and consulting with your doctor.
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Fish oil is a great anti-inflammatory and helps to alter sebum production; HOWEVER, only if it’s molecularly distilled or pharmaceutical grade. Unfortunately, many fish oil supplements are oxidized which actually creates more inflammation. So, only take it if you are sure about your source. Choosing a High Quality Omega-3 Fish Oil Omega-3 fatty acids are found in high concentrations in cold water ocean fish such as sardines, anchovies, herring, salmon and mackerel. Research indicates that Omega-3 fish oil promotes an anti-inflammatory response in the body, preventing and improving symptoms of common diseases and ailments. Studies have shown that people who suffer from chronic inflammatory acne may benefit from taking therapeutic doses (1000-1700 mg) of purified omega-3 oils daily. With recent scares regarding the purity of ocean fish, and thereby the safety and efficacy of supplements derived from them, it is a good time to revisit how to go about choosing a high-quality Skincare fish oil supplement.
Use the checklist below to help you select a superior and effective fish oil supplement. The label is important, so read it. The vital ingredients in fish oil supplements are omega-3 fatty acids, or EPA and DHA. These two fatty acids are the only ones that matter in reducing inflammation and chronic breakouts. The amount of each should be shown separately and should total between 1,000-1,700 mg per serving. There should be a higher ratio of EPA to DHA, about 2:1 or thereabouts. Many labels simply mention the total count of omega-3 fatty acids. This information is not helpful because you don’t know the actual amount of EPA and DHA. Similarly, if the EPA and DHA is stated on the bottle, but in lower amounts, be sure you will be able to take all the capsules necessary to get your daily dosage of 1,000-1,700 mg. Some popular drugstore and health food brands have such a low amount of EPA and DHA that one would have to take 12 capsules just to get the adequate daily amount! Look for molecularly distilled or pharmaceutical grade fish oil. This should be mentioned on the label. This is the highest-grade fish oil because it is molecularly distilled, avoiding oxidation of the fish oil. This is also the only process that successfully removes impurities and contaminants (mercury, dioxins, PCBs, etc.). Lastly, it produces a more concentrated form of fish oil with higher potencies of EPA and DHA, so less capsules to swallow! Find out some information about the manufacturer. Check out some other products they produce. Do some research to see how long they have been in business and if they have a good reputation.
Here is a great website for comparing brands: http://www.ifosprogram.com/consumer-reports.aspx
Look for capsules that have enteric coating. This coating ensures that the capsules will break down lower in your digestive tract, not in the stomach, minimizing those unpleasant fishy burps that many people experience after taking fish oil supplements. Look for Vitamin E. Vitamin E helps to prevent oxidation during storage, keeping the oils from turning rancid. Vitamin E will usually be listed under “Other Ingredients” as tocopherols or mixed tocopherols. By carefully choosing the right fish oil supplement, you optimize the potential benefits that Omega-3 fatty acids can impart to you. Many health practitioners agree there are many benefits to taking a quality fish oil supplement, especially for the immune system, heart, brain and joints. Of special interest to acne sufferers, they may help regulate hormones, minimizing the intensity and duration of inflammatory breakouts.
*Please note: Although there is no known toxicity associated with using fish oils over long term, you should check with your physician particularly if you have a chronic underlying illness or are pregnant. According to the FDA, you should not take more than 2,500 mg of Omega-3s daily unless under the recommendation of a physician.
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These are good bacteria that colonize the digestive tract and the skin. They can help people who have been on long-term antibiotics (both oral and topical). These good bacteria compete with the pathogenic bacteria and can help improve the incidence of breakouts.
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The acne-prone are generally lower in antioxidants than the general population. We recommend getting your antioxidants from fresh food sources, but here is the RDA for them. Vitamin A – 700 mcg – women; 900 mcg – men Vitamin C – 75 mcg – women; 90 mg – men Vitamin E – 15 mg Zinc – 30 mg N-Acetylcysteine – 1000 to 1500 mg Selenium – 55 mcg (antioxidant assistant) This is being provided for informational purposes only. This is not meant to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Face Reality and Venustas Immortalis are not offering advice, recommending, or endorsing any specific prescription drug, pharmacy or other information on the site. Face Reality and Venustas Immortalis provides no warranty for any information. Please seek medical advice before starting, changing or terminating any medical treatment.
BIRTH CONTROL
Typically, forms of birth control are divided up as estrogen or progestin dominant and have varying degrees of androgenic (testosterone like) effects. Those with the potential for higher androgenic effects may exacerbate acne breakouts.
The FDA has approved the following types of birth control for acne:
Ortho Tri-Cyclen (norgestimate/ethinyl estradiol)
Estrostep (norethindrone acetate/ethinyl estradiol) (discontinued)
YAZ (drospirenone/ethinyl estradiol).
The FDA has concluded that birth control pills containing drospirenone may have increased risk for blood clots compared to pills containing other progestins.Other brands containing drospirenone include Beyaz, Gianvi, Loryna, Ocella, Safyral, Syeda, Yasmin, and Zarah.
Other common examples of birth control pills that are estrogen dominant and are less often associated with exacerbating acne that you may want to speak to your doctor about (list is not exhaustive):
Brevicon, Necon, Tri-Legest Fe, Cyclafem 1/35, Ortho-Novum 1/35, Tri-Previferm, Kelnor, Primella 1/35, Tri-Sprintec, Modicon, Sprintec, Wymzya Fe, MonoNessa, Tilia Fe, Zovia 1/35
Common examples of birth control that is progestin dominant and are more often associated with exacerbating acne breakouts, though you should discuss with your doctor (list is not exhaustive):
Alesse, Lessina, Nexplanon, Amethyst, Levora, Nordette, Apri, Linessa, Norplant, Azurette, Loestrin, NuvaRing, Cryselle, Lo-Feminol, Ortho Tricyclen Lo, Cyclessa, Lo-Ogestrel, Paragard/Copper IUD*, Depo-Provera, Lo-Ovral, Portia, Desogen, Lutera, Triphasil/Trivora, Kariva, Mirena or Skyla IUD, Velivet
*Hormone free, however, there have been reports of higher copper levels triggering acne.
Please speak with your doctor about the birth control method that will be best for you.
You should also familiarize yourself with the benefits and risks of any birth control. This is being provided for informational purposes only. This is not meant to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Face Reality and Venustas Immortalis are not offering advice, recommending, or endorsing any specific prescription drug, pharmacy or other information on the site. Face Reality and Venustas Immortalis provides no warranty for any information. Please seek medical advice before starting, changing or terminating any medical treatment
PORE CLOGGING INGREDIENTS
Below is a list of ingredients to avoid in all skin care, acne care, makeup, and hair products. Do not ever put anything on your skin or your hair without checking the ingredients first, even if it says “Won’t Clog Pores” or “Non-Comedogenic” on the bottle.
Natural oils can be some of the worst offenders, like cocoa butter and coconut oil which are found in many “organic” skin care lines. Other oils such as jojoba, olive, and lanolin are mildly comedogenic and can be a problem if formulated with other comedogenic ingredients.
Some prescription products like the cream form of Retin-A have pore cloggers.
Many over-the-counter acne medications also have pore clogging ingredients. “Oil-free” products can be comedogenic.
Acetylated Lanolin
Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol
Algae Extract
Algin
Butyl Stearate
Carrageenan
Cetyl Acetate
Cetearyl Alcohol + Ceteareth 20
Chondrus Crispus (aka Irish Moss or Carageenan Moss)
Chlorella
Coal Tar
Cocoa Butter
Coconut Alkanes
Coconut Butter
Coconut Oil
Colloidal Sulfur
Cotton Awws Oil
Cotton Seed Oil
D & C Red # 17
D & C Red # 21
D & C Red # 3
D & C Red # 30
D & C Red # 36
Decyl Oleate
Dioctyl Succinate
Disodium Monooleamido PEG 2- Sulfosuccinate
Ethoxylated Lanolin
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Glyceryl Stearate SE
Glyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Hexadecyl Alcohol
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Isocetyl Alcohol
Isocetyl Stearate
Isodecyl Oleate
Isopropyl Isostearate
Isopropyl Linolate
Isopropyl Myristate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Isostearyl Isostearate
Isostearyl Neopentanoate
Kelp
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Laminaria Saccharina Extract (Laminaria Saccharine)
Laureth-23
Laureth-4
Lauric Acid
Mink Oil
Myristic Acid
Myristyl Lactate
Myristyl Myristate
Octyl Palmitate
Octyl Stearate
Oleth-3
Oleyl Alcohol
PEG 16 Lanolin
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
PEG 200 Dilaurate
PEG 8 Stearate
PG Monostearate
PPG 2 Myristyl Propionate
Plankton
Potassium Chloride
Propylene Glycol Monostearate
Red Algae
Seaweed
Shark Liver Oil (Squalene)
Shea Butter
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Solulan 16
Sorbitan Oleate
Soybean Oil (Glycine Soya)
Spirulina
Steareth 10
Stearic Acid Tea
Stearyl Heptanoate
Sulfated Castor Oil
Sulfated Jojoba Oil
Wheat Germ Glyceride
Wheat Germ Oil
Xylen
SHAVING TIPS:
Don’t use disposable blades more than once or twice.
Soak in alcohol for 2 – 3 minutes before use.
Don’t attempt to use twin or triple blade "closer-shaving" razors.
The first blade stretches the skin; the second (and third) shaves too close, cutting hair off below the skin line.
When the skin bounces back, those hairs are set up to be trapped repeatedly under the skin every time you shave. Don't tweeze ingrown hairs.
When tweezed hairs grow back (in two to three weeks), they are trapped under the skin line. Those areas become chronic ingrown.
Don’t use a rotary shaver. Circular blade motion cuts the hair in every imaginable direction which can cause more ingrown hairs.
Don’t shave upward, against the grain, or shave back and forth over the same place repeatedly in an attempt to get a closer shave.
Do use a single edge, disposable razor with our Acne Wash as directed, or a sanitized non-rotary electric shaver, T-edger or clippers.
Mandelic Wash or Ultra Gentle Cleanser can be used as well.
Don’t forget to spray disinfectant on razors, clipper and/or T-edger blades, guards and attachments before and after shaving.
Clippercide is available at beauty supply stores. Don't forget to take some with you to the barbershop.
Do watch for barbershop sanitation (or lack of it).
Do change your clipper or T-edger blades every six months and don’t share yours with anyone.
Do scrub very gently (with recommended product only) for no more than 30 seconds.
Blot your face dry (no rubbing) with a soft towel. Attention athletes: Don’t wipe off sweat; blot dry instead!
GETTING CLEAR & STAYING CLEAR
When your skin is not getting clear in the typical amount of time, we must become “acne detectives” to discover what may be hindering your progress. There are several areas that we address to find out what the culprit(s) is.
Listed below are the most common reasons why clients have difficulty getting clear.
Often, simple changes to your product usage and lifestyle habits can dramatically improve your skin. Product Usage You have at least a 90% chance of getting clear if you use your products exactly like we tell you to use them. The products do most of the job of getting your skin clear – we facilitate the process with treatments and extractions. Here are some reasons you may not be clearing in-regards to product usage:
Are you using your products inconsistently or skipping your routine?
Do you regularly run out of products?
Do you check in with us to adjust your routine at two-week intervals?
Do you change your routine without consulting your Acne Specialist first?
Are you using non-Face Reality products?
Are you using comedogenic makeup?
Are you using comedogenic hair care?
Are you taking the supplements recommended by a Face Reality esthetician?
Lifestyle Issues Here are several lifestyle issues we went over in your consultation that bear repeating. These may be contributing to your chronic breakouts:
Are you using fabric softener in the washer and/or the dryer?
Are you consuming dairy/soy products: milk, cheese, yogurt, and/or whey or soy protein shakes?
Are you consuming sushi, seaweed, iodized salt, spirulina, or chlorella?
Are you taking vitamins or supplements that may contain iodides and/or biotin?
Are you taking any medications or drugs or have any medical condition that you haven’t yet disclosed to us?
Do you regularly wear hats, helmets, or shoulder pads?
Are you under more stress than usual and/or getting enough sleep?
Are you on birth control pills or other hormonally-based birth control?
We will do everything in our power to help you achieve clear skin, but client cooperation is an essential component of our program. If we are unable to improve the condition of your skin due to factors beyond our control, but within yours.